Sportmax Spring Summer 2016: Runway, Backstage, Details

Sportmax Spring Summer 2016: Runway, Backstage, Details

Spring unfolds at Sportmax with a fresh start. Oceanic references and clean 1960s futurism define the collection, distilled down to their essential components.

The mood is relaxed; but the clothes themselves come into sharp focus with crisp perfection.

Opposites in fabrication create an impeccable kind of undone. Futuristic leatherette with sailcloth cottons and natural silks. The artificial versus the natural.
Polars attract in a graphic palette of ecru and black that is punctuated with juicy citruses, including sunshine yellow and zesty tangerine.

A new volume, anchored in youthful trapeze shapes, emerges this season. Legs are on full view. Short A-line dresses cut from a 1960s mold are playful and grounded with chunky sandals with a thick pyramid wedge. Sou’wester capes, leatherette swing toppers and A frame pinafores are worn with simple hand held bags reduced to elongated pentagon shapes in refined leather topped with an oval buckle.

Utilitarian pockets decorate garments in stacked tiers or oval pouches sliced with zips. Garments fasten with oval buckles mounted on thick leather either at the neck or on shoulder straps, also as pins to fasten loose oversized silk shirts worn as dresses. Guipure lace creates peekaboo port-holes.

Prints are fresh and graphic this season. A fishnet print twists around the body, seemingly catching the wearer before letting her go. Chandlery chains become a vivid stripe as bold links encircle the body in fluid crepe de chine.

The set this season, entitled “Superwalk”, follows the seasonal shift. Designed by Italian-born Andrea Trimarchi and Simone Farresin of Eindhoven-based design studio Formafantasma, the interiors of Milan’s Palazzo delle Poste (a defunct post office designed by Luigi Broggi in early 20th century) have been transformed into an installation of transparent black, sunshine yellow and nude PVC sheets. Suspended from the ceiling, the modern, wide plastic strips continue down onto the catwalk floor where they create an expanded space and seemingly infinite looping path. A wall, constructed from traditional terracotta bricks, contrasts with the futuristic interiors and complements the clean lines of the installation and the collection itself.